Victorian Jewelry (1837 – 1901)

Victorian jewelry was produced in England around the time of the reign of Queen Victoria, 1837 to 1901.The term is quite broad and includes many different styles and influences.

Victorian times are generally known to be a time of sentimentality and rigid social formalities. Thus, self-adornment with jewelry was often wrought with meaning and secret messages, e.g. eye jewelry, hair jewelry, memento mori, lockets, portraits, etc. At this time many of the revival movements took hold inspired by archaeological discoveries and a sense of sentimentality towards the past. Jewelers such as Giuliano, Castellani and Falize each became known for revival styles and are extremely collectible today.

Victorian jewelry is characterized by the use of old-mine-cut diamonds, rose-cut diamonds, sapphires, rubies, demantoid (green) garnets, enamel, jet, hair, agates, lava, and cameos, set in 15K or 18K gold or a combination of silver and gold.

The period’s main themes and inspiration were animals, insects, flora & fauna, and historicism.

Edwardian / Belle Epoch Jewelry (1890 – 1915)

Edwardian jewelry was produced in England around the time of the reign of King Edward VII, 1901 to 1910.  The term connotes very ornate, lacy and intricate metal-work, in milgrain and filigree, often now in platinum.  Many antique “engagement rings” come from this period with the single larger stone (usually diamond) in the center set in an ornate pierced-openwork setting with smaller diamonds.

The period’s main styles include bows, garlands, lace, and stylized floral motifs.

Arts and Crafts (late 19th to early 20th century)

Arts and Crafts stems from a philosophy founded in England in the late 19th century that continued into the early 20th century, which was a reaction against the mechanization taking place in Victorian decorative design.  Its goal was to return to simpler designs executed by the hands of skilled craftsmen, ideally passing through one pair of hands from start to finish.  Arts and Crafts jewelers often chose to use less precious materials such as brass, copper, aluminum, and silver.  Some Arts and Crafts jewelry employing the colors green, white and purple (violet) have been associated with the suffragette movement, as these were the colors of the WSPU (Women’s Social and Political Union) who fought for the vote for women at the turn of the last century in England (Green, White, Violet – Give Women the Vote).  This philosophy also spread to America, the most notable American Arts and Crafts designer being Gustav Stickley who produced furniture.

Art Deco (1915 – 1935)

Art Deco is an early 20th century western artistic movement that spanned many countries and forms – from architecture to print design to jewelry.  It employed geometric shapes and lines used in repetition to create abstract symmetrical linear motifs.  The motifs were often completed using strong contrasting colors.

Popular materials included onyx, diamonds, carnelian, coral, jade, enamel and platinum.

The excess and glamour of the Roaring 20’s is reflected in the high-end jewels from this time period, including neck-to-knee length sautoirs strung with natural pearls and diamonds to be worn with low-cut “flapper” gowns or jeweled clips to adorn head pieces.

Retro (1940 – 1950)

Heavy usage of yellow and rose gold in big, bold designs using large gem-stones of many shades and colors characterized this period. Platinum was being reserved for the war effort as a strategic metal. Designs were Deco-inspired but often asymmetrical. This is the period that embodied Hollywood glamour.

Mid-Century (1950 – 1960)

With mid-century jewelry, the use of platinum was prevalent once again. Designs were often abstract free-form designs using a combination of yellow gold and platinum. Pieces were often pavéd with small diamonds covering much of the piece. This was the period in which Schlumberger was producing his finest pieces for Tiffany & Co.

Charities Our Clients Support

With each purchase we are happy to list a 501 3C  (US tax-exempt) charity of your choice.  You can also submit a photo of you at your charity’s event wearing your purchase. We may post that too! Everyone in the photo must give  permission in writing to be included on our website. Visit the showroom for details. International charities will be listed at ALVR’s sole discretion.

An Imperial Fascination: Porcelain. Dining with the Czars: Peterhof.

An Imperial Fascination: Porcelain. Dining with the Czars: Peterhof. Catalogue of an exhibition at A La Vieille Russie of porcelain services from the Russian Imperial Palaces, from the collections of the State Museum in Peterhof. Paul Schaffer, Editor. Texts by Nina V. Vernova, Vadim V. Znamenov, Tamara N. Nosovitch. A La Vieille Russie, New York, 1991.

Please contact A La Vieille Russie to order a copy.

View excerpts from the exhibition

Golden Years of Fabergé:
Drawings and Objects from the Wigström Workshop

 Golden Years of Fabergé: Drawings and Objects from the Wigström Workshop, by Ulla Tillander-Godenhielm, Peter Schaffer, Alice Ilich, and Mark Schaffer, A La Vieille Russie and Alain de Gourcuff Editeur, Paris, 2000.

Please contact A La Vieille Russie to order a copy.

Imperial Easter Eggs

Imperial Easter Eggs. An Exhibition of porcelain Easter Eggs from the Collection of Her Majesty Queen Margrethe II, The Royal Danish Collections at Amalienborg Palace, and the State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. Christiansborg Palace, Copenhagen, 1994.

Own your own copy for $85 plus applicable tax and shipping charges.

Click here for more