Cocktail Rings – Glitter on the Rocks with a Twist

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Prohibition era (1920-1933) cocktail parties rekindled a love for statement jewelry as part of a new genre of festive adornment consisting of cocktail dresses, aprons, hats, and, of course, flashy cocktail rings. Our collection includes a range of examples from the Art Deco era to the later twentieth century. The taste for these party rings continues on today, often as a favorite accessory on the red carpet.

Fancy Sapphire Ring

 

Women attending cocktail parties showed off the new fashions, and in doing so, their newfound liberties. Often bought by a woman for herself, cocktail rings were a testament to a woman’s increasing autonomy and individuality.  One can easily imagine an elegant, au courant lady tapping her glass while wearing our Art Deco diamond and sapphire pinky ring. An oversized cocktail pinky ring such as this could easily be worn on either the right or left hand.

Ruby, Diamond, and Platinum Art Deco Ring

Our 1930’s diamond cocktail ring in the form of a shield with a ruby in the center reflects the predominant taste for ‘white’ jewelry – the effect of diamonds on platinum, but the central ruby adds just a touch of flare.

Black Opal Ring

Our 1950’s black opal and diamond cocktail ring makes quite the statement. The oblong form of the ring is well suited to be worn on the pointer finger and could never be confused with one intended to signify betrothal.

Cartier Bombé Ring

Our 1960’s diamond bombe ring embodies Cartier’s assurance as a seasoned jewelry house in both their designs and materials. The oversized diamond ring has over 12 carats worth of diamonds but it is more than just a display of intrinsic value – the traditional bombé form is elevated by the subtle striping of the princess and round-cut diamonds.

The cocktail ring transformed over the decades into the perfect statement piece suitable for all occasions. We have many styles to choose from, everything from aquamarines to entirely diamond rings. Please feel free to either come by the gallery to see our entire selection or email us!

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Mistress and Muse, Lady Hamilton and the Maltese Cross

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Antique Pink Topaz Maltese Cross

The Maltese cross originated as the symbol of the Knights of Malta, otherwise known as the Knights Hospitaller and the Knights of St. John. Because of its beautiful form, as time went on, it morphed into the popular jewel we know today. This was in great measure due to Lady Emma Hamilton, mistress of Lord Horatio Nelson, who received one in 1800 from the Russian Emperor Paul I.

She frequently wore the cross at balls and other events, and soon, Maltese crosses, worn as pendants and brooches, were in vogue, with the trend peaking in the 1830s and 1840s.  Though mainly set with diamonds, designs also used carved hardstones like agate and chalcedony. The form evolved over the years in accordance with current fashions, but never becoming unrecognizable. Our diamond Maltese cross is an example of the liberties taken with evolving nineteenth-century fashion.

Maltese Diamond Pendant

Lady Hamilton’s life was a succession of scandals. Her origins as a courtesan, coupled with her reputation as a woman “no man can resist” rendered her not highly regarded in English society. Quite beautiful, she was the muse of many artists. In fact, she is thought to be the most painted woman in all of British history. Mistress and muse, history acknowledges her with another term: trendsetter.

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The Enduring Appeal of Antique Jewelry

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Fine antique jewelry is beautiful from all angles...

Fine antique jewelry is beautiful from all angles…

Not only is antique jewelry beautiful and fun to wear, but it also demonstrates a real marriage of artistry, craftsmanship, intrinsic value, and context.   Part of the beauty of antique jewelry is that it comes with stories, allowing one to touch the past.  Some pieces have incredible provenance, and many pieces have an interesting historical context, much of which we’ve been exploring on the blog. For example, nationalism and Berlin iron, Victorian revival styles, romanticism, science and insect jewelry, the rise of leisure and sporting jewelry, and so much more.  Antique jewelry is very much a reflection of time, and therefore needs to be appreciated the same way one appreciates works of art and paintings: you have to learn about it. Since people have been adorning themselves since the beginning of time, there is an antique style for everyone!

On a more personal level, there is an intimacy to antique jewelry. In some families, the only surviving heirlooms are jewelry. Jewelry is valuable and portable, making it more easily transferrable to future generations, and therefore carries irreplaceable sentimental value. There is real power in being able to connect with your ancestors by wearing a piece of jewelry that has been in your family for generations. It is a unique feeling when you slip on a ring and realize you have the same ring size as your great grandmother whom you never met.

Greater thought went into designing antique pieces. Unique stones, selected for their beauty, and symbolism inspired well thought out, one-of-a-kind compositions. Today, stones are often selected for their intrinsic value and standardized for mass produced mounts. That is not to say that there are not exceptions, but even people who do not have an academic knowledge of jewelry can visually understand the difference between antique and modern work. A quick quality test is to turn a piece over, a true work of art will be just as lovely on the reverse. While there are a handful of modern jewelers who are master craftsman, mass production has really replaced handcraft in the industry.

Many of our pieces come from a more formal era, a time very different from how we live today. It is fun to imagine how they were worn then, and even more fun to incorporate them into today’s fashions. The constant evolution of fashion breathes new life into antique jewelry. More often than not we find ourselves in jeans as opposed to ballgowns, but a great piece of jewelry and some confidence looks good with anything!

... including the reverse

… including the reverse

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